The
night we made our night drive to the worst place in the world, it was
February cold. Ryan Air from Prestwick to Frankfurt Hahn. A fiver a
head. And the airport was like being in a weird arthouse movie.
Canned music and no people. An old Cold war US airbase made over
German style for budget travellors. Like us.
We
were the only punters at the line of car rental offices. And the
sense of the surreal just kept rolling along. Wanna upgrade to a Jag
for an extra ten Euros? Sure. Why not?
And
then we were gliding east under a sky of glittering stars. The
dashboard said it was minus 10 outside. Ever east in light traffic.
An autobahn I had travelled in a another lifetime. In another world.
Once upon a time I had driven the super smooth German tarmac all the
way to the ark lights and razor fences of Eisenach. Smiling West
German border guards. Unsmiling East German border guards. Through
the Iron Curtain to a world of pot holes and chugging Trabants.
Now
Eisenach was a gleaming service station and the smooth tarmac
stretched all the way beyond Erfurt and Jena and Leipzig. And Gorlitz.
And Chemnitz. Back in the day, Chemnitz had been Karl Marx Stadt. A
crumbling, concrete manifestation of the slowly crumbling Bolshevik dream.
Little did we know in a matter years Chemnitz would become the pin up
town for a whole new generation of strutting Nazis. What goes around,
comes around.
The
autobahn went single carriageway for the last handful of miles to the
Polish border. The road signs promised a hundred kilometres or so to
Breslau. Which was a lie really. For there was no Breslau. Not any
more. Not since 1945 when Hitler's last 'Fortress City' succumbed to
the guns of the Red Army and mass rape. The Soviets were having none
of Breslau. They renamed the place Wroclow and populated it with grey
high rise blocks and Poles from the East.
The
three in the morning border was kind enough for us. No fences or
Alsation dogs. No watch towers or ark lights. And then a ten mile
parked up queue of waiting wagons. Maybe it was sneak preview of what
awaits us on 29 March 2019.
Potholes
and no salt on the road. Odd cabin like bars gleaming puddles of
light into the icy air. Glimpses of hard drinking HGV guys. Throat
stripping vodka and trafficked girls from Moldova. Not a place to
break down.
By
four, my eyes didn't want to stay open any longer. A lay by and a
couple of hours of sleep in the the Jaguar's cocoon of warmth. I
opened my eyes onto a steel grey dawn and silver birches and a world
of flat nothing.
An
hour to the belching smoke stacks of Katowice. And then more surreal.
A McDonalds gleamed in the wall to wall grey. And we were from Mars.
A mixed race family in a Jag.
And
suddenly were into the last few miles to the worst place in the
world. There was no fanfare. No signs to speak of.
Just
a small turn off. 'Osweicim'.
Auschwitz.
Light
traffic in the grey early morning light. A pedestrian here and a
pedestrian there. Crumbling apartment blocks and vast industrial
estates and no clue as to the whereabouts of the worst place in the
world. And it's not the kind of place you stop a well wrapped
pedestrian to ask for directions. Not when you're in a Jag. Not when
you own not a word of Polish.
A
sign at last. Small. Unloved. 'Holocaust Museum'
Only
a kilometre. Hidden away amidst all the factories.
We
parked up and wrapped up and walked through the most famous
gates in history.
'Arbeit
Macht Frei'
We
stood it for two hours. A gas chamber. A crematorium. Vast piles of
suitcases and spectacles. The wall where 20,000 were executed. The
railway siding in Birkenau where life and death was chosen for
thousands a day.
Fences
and watch towers and accommodation blocks and a bone chilling wind
from the East. Well of course it was from the East. Where the hell
else was it going to come from?
I
have a memory of just standing there on the ground were so many had
walked their last. I smoked and tried to absorb a brutal truth. We
would have been on one of those trains. A mixed race family. An
abhomination to the Nazi goons. An affront. I would have been guilty
of committing a heinous crime against the purity of my race. And
Carol would have been classified as a subhuman. And Dyonne and
Courtney would have been deemed to be mongrels.
And
for our sins we would have been stripped and gassed and incinerated.
Four more souls in the midst of five million.
Four
more statistics in the place where racism morphed into genocide. The
place where Coon and Nigger and Wog and Spade and Darkie and Paki and
Yid and Rag Head and Haji mutated into Zyclon B and carefully curated
statistics of the day's kill: the day's industrial kill. Flesh to
ash.
And
in case you're wondering, no, the birds didn't sing. Not a note. Not
a cheep.
The
worst place in the world left me infected. Contaminated. A monster in
the cupboard. A creak on the stair in the dead of night. A bottomless terror
waiting around a distant corner.
Waiting.
Always waiting. Never dead. Always patient and ready and waiting for
the next moment. The next manifestation. The next infestation.
It
is the lesson of the worst place in the world. Never say never. Not
ever. We have found cures for TB and Yellow Fever and Cholera and Typhoid and Aids. And one day will no doubt crack Cancer. But Racism?
The dark cloud in the soul of humanity?
No
chance.
And
for the fifteen years since we drove away from the worst place in the
world, the lights have been going out one by one. In the Philippines.
In India. In Brazil. In Sweden. In Denmark. In Italy. In Poland and
Hungary and France and Spain. In Holland and Belgium and Russia and
Greece and Ukraine.
And
in America.
And
right here.
So
called strogmen popping out of the ground like poisonous weeds.
Duterte and Mohdi and Erdovan and Putin and Urban and Bolsonaro and
Farage and Tommy fucking Robinson. Hate for breakfast. Dog whistles
and death squads. Lackeys for the 1%.
And
of course the daddy of them all. Trump.
So
laughable. So pathetic in all his preening stupidity. The butt of a
million jokes a day. An orange monstrosity, but surely too much of a
clown to do any real harm? Surely?
But
the men who built the worst place in the world were once jokes
themselves as they goose stepped and preened in their silly clothes.
Trump
is their mutated spawn. The puffed up, pathetic strutting vanity of
Mussolini. The venal, sweating, bottomless corruption of Goering. And
Hitler's Satanic ability to turn pond life into a cult following.
Whilst the world laughed, the 1% bankrolled these joke figures all
the way to fifty million dead. Hilter had Krupps and BMW and Mercedes
to sign the cheques. Trump has Lockheed and the Koch brothers. Hitler
had his very own poisonous elf called Josef Goebbels. Trump has
Bannon.
Everything
has been road tested. When a handful of oligarchs are hell bent on
stealing the wealth of the world, they need a useful idiot to
distract the masses with a tsunami of hate. And if people can be
induced to spend their every waking hour hating the Niggers and the
Spades and the Coons and the Wogs and the Pakis and the Yids and the
Rag Heads, they won't notice the fact that sixty people now own more
than half of the world. Of course they wont't. They never do.
All
of which brings me to tonight. Another agonising sit through the
small hours before the dawn. The Midterms. Maybe the last chance to
turn the tide. Maybe the last chance for enough people to remember
the better angels of their nature. Maybe the last chance to stop a
the poisonous tide which is rising all over the world.
And
I'm dreading it. There have been far to many desperate nights over
the last few years. IndyRef. Brexit. Trump. Triumphant, fist pumping
racists wrapped in the wrong flags. And so called experts wondering
how such a thing could have happened. And dawn breaking on a darker
world. A world a few miles closer to the worst place in the world.
Will
tomorrow bring yet another dark dawn? More memories of a smoked Camel
on a railway siding where once some were allocated life and
others allocated death?
Will
my skin once again crawl with a gnawing feeling of coming doom? The
feeling of being a mixed race family in the midst of a world turning
to the dark side. A family deemed to be wrong and impure and sinful
and abbhorant. A family to be blamed and hated and spat at. My two
sons classified as mongrels. Sub humans. Responsible for every
problem in the lives of millions.
And
of course everyone will put on brave smiles and say of course it
can't happen again. Of course they will. I wonder if they have ever
smoked a Camel on the cracked stones of that Birkenau railway siding?
I wonder if they have ever stared through the ice cold air to bare
trees and mute birds?
Tonight
could be the tipping point. It could be the moment when evil is
stopped in it's tracks. Or it could be the night when the world
slides quietly into a new dark age.
In
the bleak grey of tomorrow's dawn, our small mixed race family might
well be pinning our futures on a sanctuary called Scotland. The
Switzerland for the twenty first century.
But
right now the only voices in my head belong to the witches of
Macbeth.
'By
the pricking of my thumbs, something wicked this way comes.....'
It comes, Mark, it comes. I can see Esther McVey running a murder camp. So many people have no historical knowledge and have an ability to say it'll be ok, such things can't happen here.
ReplyDeleteThey are either deluded or complicit. I have asked some of these right wing, but not elite, fools to choose which fits them better. They don't like that.
I do not know where this is going, but, like you, I fear.
How do you feel now, Mark, with the result in? Send to me there is both signs of hope & despair in equal measure. We are living in 'interesting times' as the ancient Chinese curse would have it.
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